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Mold Care/Use

When using your mold creating the finished items is your responsibility; as there are many types of soap base and waxes. Please know your mediums before purchasing your mold. There are many helpful and informative web sites and books on the market. I have learned my own techniques by old fashioned trial and error, reading and researching. But even then, I have found everyone acquires their very own style and techniques.

Each of my finished products, are made, then measured and weighed. It depends on the soap base, wax, formula and mediums your are using. My measurements given are from the highest and the widest points. Along with the samples I have personally made.

Silicone Mold Care and Storage Tips

Your mold will last through 100's of pours. Wash your molds with warm soapy solution. Pat dry.

Store your molds in a single layer. Keep in a dark cool place as sunlight can shorten the life of your molds. Also don't pile your molds on top of each other because your molds may become squished and will stay that way. You can also pour unscented wax in them to keep their shape.
Silicone is a "live" product, all silicone. Meaning it cures for its life span after being hand poured. Store your silicone molds in plastic wrap or an air tight bag. The Equipment that I have invested in that eliminates the excess air from the silicone as I am working with it, creates a longer lasting and stronger more dense mold.

Cutting/Slitting Block Molds

If a silicone mold arrives with a cut or slit in it, don't worry, it is not broken—these are called block molds and these slits are put there to enable you to remove the piece from the mold. Most commonly these are the animals and "L" shaped items, such as a horse with the protruding head and ears. These molds for these types of pieces will have a jagged cut in the mold itself, this mold is not broken or torn either. This cut is put there to enable you to de-mold the soap from the mold. Otherwise you would not be able to get the piece out of the mold without this cut. Also, the more jagged the cut the better, it is less likely to show any seam. Rubber bands that I include with these types of molds hold the mold together for pouring. Items such as ears, wings etc. require a cut or slit. If the cuts/slits are there and you are still having a problem, then the cuts need to be made larger.

If you need to make the cut larger, this is how to do it: take a utility knife (razor), sharp scissors or even a sharp knife and start tweaking the area that is at issue.

Slits/cuts DO NOT HURT THE MOLD. You can even cut all the way through a mold if you wish, rubber bands hold the mold together without leaking hot product.

Ears and noses and wings may need adjusting after you pull your piece from your mold.

When de-molding an item from a cut mold, make sure you pull the silicone away from your item that is in the mold when you start to de-mold. Do this until you can actually see way deep into the mold as you pull the silicone away from your piece. This loosens the silicone from the rest of your item and makes de-molding those ears easier.

You can also trim off excess silicone from the top of the mold if you are having a problem with a shallow mold. Or you can take a utility knife or scissors and make slits/cuts through the top silicone (in several places). When you de-mold, the silicone will part at the cuts and this aids in the release of your finished product.


There are three ways to wick a candle silicone mold:

  1. Wick Centering Device ~ No hole is needed in your mold.
  2. For small candles (such as floaters) you can wick the candle after it has been taken from the mold. Using a hot round object – such as a wick pin, nail, or knitting needle – creates the hole for your wick. Be careful on this procedure as the hot object can cause you injury if you are not careful.
  3. Insert a small sharp object directly through the bottom of the mold (from the inside of the mold to be sure the hole is centered). Some people use wick pins, nails, or knitting needles — anything that is small and sharp will usually do the trick. Silicone is a tight rubber and the small hole (if round) will usually seal itself without leaking wax. DON’T use a knife, it is flat (not round) and can start a tear in the silicone. Which over time, could be enlarged with use and leak wax.

Once the hole is made, you can use:

  1. A wick pin and then thread your wick through the mold.
  2. You can use upholstery needles (they are sharp and have large eyes) or some people use a small household wire, bent in half.

Thread your wick in the instrument and pull through the hole in the bottom of the mold. The silicone will close tightly around the hole of the wick so you should not have any leaking of wax. Leave a wick tail extending beyond the outer shell of the mold. Attach a wick bar to the wick and place the bar on top of the mold. (Be sure it is centered and pulled tight to hold the wick centered.) Once your candle is dry, remove from the mold, pulling the excess wick through the hole in the mold and cut the trailing wick.

NOTE: If you are making a number of these candles, leave the wick trailing in the mold (already through the hole in the mold) it will save you from having to do this process all over again.

I hope I have answered all of your questions here. If not please feel free to email me anytime.

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